A Road Trip Around Naxos

If you have a few days on Naxos, you will probably want to explore the island. At about one third the size of Kauai, it is easy to see a lot in one day. The typical driving route is a stop at Temple of Dimitra, followed with the mountain villages of Chalki (Halki), Filoti and Apeiranthos, and then finishing at the fishing village of Apollonas on the northeastern coast. This 100 km route will take you a good part of the day.

Although there is local bus service to these towns, and KTEL offers a day tour through them, the best and easiest way to access these remote locations is by car rental.

I noticed that for Naxos, the name brand car agencies on the car rental search engines were at least €20 more than the local, off-brand establishments. There are endless 4-seater options; you will want to book ahead if you need a 5-seater!  Motonaxos is popular but not your cheapest option. I went with Apollon Rent A Car next to the ferry for €48 (Alamo was €64). Super easy.

Driving through Naxos, the mountain roads are winding and narrow, reminding me of the Amalfi Coast minus all the cars. Caution: the buses need both lanes to make the mountain turns.

The curvy roads of Naxos 

The car came with no gas so the first thing we did was get €30 gas (~200 km).

Not on our original itinerary, the Temple of Dimitra is a main attraction of Naxos. We made a quick stop because when in Greece … you visit Ancient Greek ruins! When we arrived at 10:00am, no one was there. As we left the temple to see its little museum at 10:15am, two tour buses pulled up. For your visit: Cost is €4 or €2 reduced (cash only) and includes the museum and restroom. (Student ID not required for us.). Open 8:30-15:30. Closed on Tuesdays.

Dimitra's Temple dates back to 530 BC. The marble temple dedicated to Dimitra, the goddess of agriculture and harvest, is still largely intact.

Our next stop was the village of Halki (or Chalki, but the "c" is silent.). We found the mountain villages to be incredibly scenic, and inviting for a refreshing drink or bite to eat. They are small and only have a few shops each.

The scenic village of Chalki

The second popular hike on Naxos (the first being yesterday's hike to Mount Zas) is the 7-km, 2-hour circular easy hike from Chalki to Moni and back. This hike offers the opportunity to see old churches and monasteries surrounded by farms and olive groves. We set out at 11 am but barely lasted 45 minutes before calling it quits. Even though there were shady patches, it was just too hot to be pleasant. Greg and I are big walkers but we weren't up for this one. After the second (optional) detour to an old church, the kids cried "uncle" on taking the detours. We were trying to follow Route 4 but it kept wanting us to turn back to Chalki. I have detailed picture-by-picture instructions - they were taken in a different season and covered the local signs so in the bright sun on my tiny phone I could not navigate us at the continuous forks in the path. (Real hikers use a GPS.)  We didn't have the energy to venture down the wrong path.  For the route, detailed picture by picture, go here (or email me)

https://www.naxostrek.com/en/trails/naxos-hiking-trail-4/

On the wall in Chalki is a map of all the routes in the area.  Thank goodness we didn't stay on Detour 4A - it looked miserable in the blazing sun.

The beginning of the hiking trail from Chalki to Moni. The trail is a loop. 

Agios Georgios Diasoritis, a Byzantine church of the 11th century

Next we drove to the village of Apeiranthos, most often referred to as the prettiest mountain village, and called the "marble village" because its squares, streets and buildings are made from sheets of crystalline rock. Unless you're relaxing at a cafe, it is another quick stop. The restaurant Amorgianos was recommended to us by a local.

At the top of Apeiranthos, near where you park, is a row of cafes that overlook the valley below

The main shop in Apeiranthos is on the stairs behind us

Our next stop was something we will never forget. Every time I tried to find a restaurant in Naxos, I kept being directed to one that seemed in the middle of nowhere: Taverna Dalas. Finally I committed - how could I not, it is #1 on TripAdvisor for all of Naxos.

To get to the mountain village of Koronos, you will want to drive - the bus takes an hour (one way), and who knows when it comes back for you!

Chris was navigating us to the village of Koronos but I hadn't given him any details. I knew Taverna Dalas was hard to find and didn't show up on my map app, so when I spotted signs, I told the driver to follow them.

Follow the signs to Taverna Dalas

There was no one eating at the tavern when we got there at 1:45 pm, yet I had no reason to doubt all the praising reviews. "Run by Aunt Mary who cooks everything herself. Each portion is for at least 2 persons and the food is excellent." Look no further!

The chatming setting of Taverna Dalas in Koronos

Taverna Dalas in Koronos

We couldn't finish the single portion of Greek Salad. OMG the gargantuan scoop of incredibly fresh feta topping our salad was so creamy and completely indescribable - and nothing like the bricks labeled feta back at home. We also shared the specials: chicken, lamb, and artichoke. The homemade pita was out of this world.  When I went inside to pay the bill I was impressed - not by the cost €35 as much as the fact that Aunt Mary was running the place completely by herself and the amazing meal had come out of such a small kitchen!

Every bite of our meal at Taverna Dalas exploded with flavor.

Our bellies full, everyone wanted to be back at the apartment. Not keep driving. We continued the loop anyway - to get to Apollonas. We drove through the quaint fishing village and unanimously voted to park. I don't know what came over us but it was like we never saw the ocean before. We were giddy silly.

Apollonas - the northeast coast of Naxos 

For dinner we were in for a treat. We met my friend from work at her newly built house on the island! She and her husband are Greek and spoiled us with a delectable traditional Greek meal overlooking the sunset.