10 Things to Do In Athens
The city of Athens has the most glorious history in the world. Athens is the center of Ancient Greek civilization and the birthplace of democracy. To travelers, Athens is most famous for its archaeological ruins, particularly the Acropolis. A large part of the town's historic center has been converted into a ~2-mile pedestrian zone, one of the biggest in Europe - making it very walkable. It is a destination that you'll want at the top of your list!
View of the Acropolis from Mars Hill
We took the ferry 5 hours from Naxos to Athens. Go to Ferryhopper.com to access all ferry schedules but if you are paying extra for a seat reservation then buy your tickets directly from your chosen ferry company so you can reserve a specific seat.
We have 3 nights and 2 full days in Athens before flying home. I've separated the blog into two posts - things to do and things to eat!
During our stay, Athens and Folsom are competing for the highest temperature! At only 99 in Folsom, Athens wins by 1 degree! The family prefers the high and dry temperature of Athens to the islands' humid 84 degrees. Although 100 degrees sounds completely unbearable, we all manage it with no problem by carrying cold water in a hydro, aiming for the shade on every street, not rushing, and taking breaks - particularly one in our centrally located air-conditioned apartment every few hours.
We are staying at Acro&Polis in the Plaka with a view of the Acropolis, a very short distance away. All of our activities are within ~1 mile.
I highly recommend a stay at Acro&Polis. The rooftop patio has a view to the Acropolis and the city of Athens
There is a variety of ways to keep busy in Athens. Pick and choose from my top 10 list:
#10 Tour the Panathenaic Stadium, the birthplace of the modern olympics
The Panathenaic Stadium is located on the site of an ancient stadium which for many centuries hosted games where nude male athletes competed in track events. It is the only stadium in the world built entirely with marble, and the first modern Olympic Games in 1896 were held here. It is a short distance from the Plaka. For €5 you can enter and take the audio guided tour, which was recommended to us.
The free street-side view of the Panathenaic Stadium
Bronze statue of a discus thrower near Panathenaic Stadium
#9 See Varvakios Market – central Athens food market
Close to Monastiraki, the Varvakios Market offers a variety of food items including the fish market—the largest fresh fish market in Europe. About five to 10 tons of fresh fish arrive here daily, mostly from the surrounding Greek islands.
"What is that??" Kate wasn't prepared to see slaughtered goats and lamb at Varvakios Market
"I don't think I need to see this again" -- Kate
Varvakios Market is the largest fresh fish market in Europe
#8 Watch the Changing of the Guard
At the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Syntagma, the guard changes five minutes before the top of each hour. The story of the Evzone Guards - their honor, their imposing stature, their perfectly tuned movements - is fascinating. In front of the Hellenic Parliament, the Evzone stands completely motionless and silent for an hour, blinking his eyes or tapping his gun when he needs assistance. Whimsical in appearance at first glance, with a deeper understanding, the presidential guard and its military dress evokes a sense of pride.
The Changing of the Guard in Athens is actually interesting when you hear about the uniforms and honor
The Evzone guards' movements are slow, calculated, precise, and impressive
#7 Eat, drink, and people watch on Souvlaki Row - at O Thanasis
It is refreshing, delicious, and entertaining. Right off Monastiraki Square, it is easy to get to.
Souvlaki Row is a great place to rest
#6 Explore the Plaka and if time, nearby Anafiotika
Take a break to enjoy a beverage on the famous Plaka Stairs. It's impossible not to be captivated by the cobblestone streets and the brightly colored buildings juxtaposed against the vibrant bougainvillea plants.
A beautiful Plaka street around the corner from where we stayed. This area always had people sitting enjoying the atmosphere, a drink or food.
Infamous Plaka Stairs - a great place to relax with a drink
Wandering around Anafiotika - "Is this another detour?" It was too hot to climb hills for exploration.
#5 Climb Mars Hill and/or Philopappos Hill - particularly at sunset - for great views of the Acropolis
While traveling we love to take a beer (or wine) to a great viewing spot at sunset!
Mars Hill is right near the ticket booth of the Acropolis. It has a short staircase up to amazing views. It is also known for where Apostle Paul preached.
View from Mars Hill at night
Philopappos Hill, though next to the Acropolis and easily assessible, is a little too far away for a good picture at dusk with a phone. Also located on the hill is Socrates prison.
#4 Walk along the various pedestrian shopping streets
The old historical neighborhood of Athens is a labyrinth of streets clustered around the slopes of the Acropolis and is packed with shops. Wander Adrianou, the Flea Market, Aiolou, Pandrossou, etc. The best souvenir prices are on Pandrossou. Ermou has your common retail stores.
Pandrossou is right off Monastiraki and has the best deals on souvenirs
The Flea Market is another shopping area off Monastiraki
#3 Visit the Acropolis Museum
Consistently rated as one of the best museums in the world, the Acropolis Museum is devoted to the Parthenon and its surrounding temples. It holds the original ancient artifacts that were found in and around the Acropolis and successfully deconstructs how the Parthenon sculptures once looked to the citizens of ancient Athens. An added perk during the hot summer months: it is air conditioned!
I bought our Acropolis Museum tickets online in the morning so we could skip the line. If you have tickets then go up to the door near the exit and they will let you in.
Beneath the Acropolis Museum are the ruins of an ancient Athenian neighborhood
We started with the video on the 3rd floor followed by the Parthenon Gallery. As you make your way around, it is as if you are walking around the cella of the Parthenon, viewing its sculptural components: the pediments, metopes, and frieze.
It is mind blowing that archeologists can go through the rubble and dirt layers on the Acropolis and then figure out the 70,000 piece three-dimensional puzzle. "How can they tell where it fits?" we ask each other outloud.
This section of the frieze depicts the 'Parthenon Riders' who are preparing for the Panathenaic procession. This particular block is believed to be the work of Pheidias, one of the greatest sculptors of all time.
The nearby Parthenon and Acropolis can be seen through the windows of the museum, a perfect view from the 3rd floor.
These five authentic ladies (Caryatids) are the stars of the show, waiting for the sixth one currently held in London at the British Museum - along with 263 feet of the frieze, which were aquired by Lord Elgin in 1803 (a majorly controversial topic). The concept of a carved woman supporting a building originated here in Greece but now can be seen the world over.
#2 Feast on traditional Greek food
See the separate blog entry devoted to Athens food
#1 The Acropolis - the whole reason we came to Athens - and any of the other nearby ruins that strike your attention
At 9am the crowd at the top of the Acropolis is still minimal - how much of that is impacted by Covid, we do not know?
The Acropolis:
The prime time to visit the Acropolis in Athens is right when it opens so we had to get up early. First Jeremy and I went out to grab rationings for the troop: breakfast and the "best" coffee in Athens.
We had to be in line at the Acropolis at 7am even though it doesn't open until 8am. I didn't come all this way to be at the end of a long line to get to the top! I bought our tickets (€20 each) online in advance and didn't bother with the reduced rate, which would have slowed us down since age has to be proven in person at the ticket booth that opens at 8am.
At 7am we are first in line at the Acropolis turnstiles, which don't open until 8am. The nice lady guarding the gate tells us this is the best time to be here.
Being the first one to the top of the Acropolis was worth getting up early - and every penny of the entire trip! Join us in solitude as we climb up 512 feet to the top:
The entrance to the Propylaea
The Propylaea, the monumental gateway to the Acropolis, is the main and only entrance to the Acropolis site.
The Presidential Evzone soldiers are actually the first people up to the top each morning (minus the workers) as they raise the great flag of Greece over the city of Athens.
We are walking along the Sacred Way which culminates at the Acropolis
After walking through the gateway, our gaze is drawn to the greatest achievement of ancient Greek architecture - the Parthenon. The sole reason for its existence was to house the 40-foot gold and ivory statue of Athena Parthenos, the patron goddess of Athens. In late Antiquity, the colossal statue disappeared from the historical record.
Everything about the Parthenon makes you feel insignificant: its immense size (half a football field), its harmony of lines and proportions, the fact that it has stood here for two and a half thousand years despite the ravages of time, explosions, looting, and pollution damage. Pause and take it all in!
The Parthenon has been in ruin ever since the Venetian cannonball struck it in 1687. My favorite part of the 2500-year-old story is when the Greeks sent ammo to the enemy Turks so they would stop destroying what was left of the Parthenon as they broke it down for lead to make bullets.
The Erechtheion is another important temple - constructed to house the ancient olivewood cult statue of Athena.
The famous south porch of the Erechtheion, its roof supported by six statues known as Caryatids.
The Erechtheion contains the "Sacred Tokens" from when Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Look for the gaping hole in the ceiling created by Poseidon's trident (from which a spring burst forth) and the olive tree from Athena. The people of Athens judged Athena's gift more useful because they had loads of water already and olives hadn't been invented yet.
On the southwest slope of the Acropolis is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. The Roman theater was completed ~174 AD and primarily used as a music venue. Even today it is only open to the public during summer evening musical performances.
There is a lesser-known second entrance into the slopes of the Acroplis over by the museum, typically with a shorter line, but it is further away from the main path to the top. At 9:30 there are about 100 people in line waiting to buy tickets from its only ticket booth. In the foreground of the picture you can see an empty queue for those who already have tickets.
Even though it is something we absolutely had to do while in Athens, it hopefully doesn't stay on the mandatory requirement list long: Get a Covid test so you can fly home. We walked a mile to the Athens Clinic. (For more info email operationdept@centralclinic.gr ) No appointment necessary. It was pretty easy and a lot less stressful than waiting to do it at the airport, and a relief our negative results meant we had all made it through the red zone of Greece Covid cases. Assuming we didn't catch Covid, our main concern was trying to figure out if the US/CDC really had recently changed its policy to allow a rapid test (only €20 instead of the €60 PCR test) - another relief when United cleared our rapid test.
Being tested for Covid outside the Athens Clinic - a US requirement if we want to return home in 3 days.
On a side note, our original plans for this trip were to travel from Belgium through Germany, Luxembourg and Switzerland. As luck would have it, the trip was cancelled. Had we been there now we would be experiencing catastrophic floods!
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